10 Days Chasing the Wild in Iceland
Full of waterfalls and spectacular nature experiences, Iceland is the land of fire and ice. After hearing others talk about it and seeing many photos and videos, I'd wanted to go to Iceland for a long time, so when I knew I'd be in the UK and Ireland and realised it was only a few hours to fly there, I jumped at the chance.
Travelling to Iceland early to mid October worked out very well as there were fewer crowds, sufficient hours of daylight, good weather (lots of rain balanced with sunshine and minimal snow) and I got to see the Northern Lights!
Blue Lagoon and Reykjavík
Day 1 started with an 8am booking at Blue Lagoon, Iceland's most famous geothermal springs. I'd opted for the earliest time to avoid crowds and highly recommend both the location and the early start. We arrived in the dark just as the sun was rising and it was magical to be getting into the milky blue water, where the steam was rising from the water as the sun rose over the horizon. The outside temperature was cold but the water is around 38 degrees.
It's about a 45 minute drive from the capital Reykjavík to the Blue Lagoon. There are buses that can be booked to transport visitors to and from the city but I don't know how early they start.
After getting back to the city I visited the Old Harbour area. I was keen to see the beautifully designed Harpa building and attended the Volanco Express show there which is worth a watch.
Also in the capital I attended another show I enjoyed called Flyover Iceland, it's really a ride and it is one I'd highly recommend for all ages.
The Golden Circle and Seljalandsfoss
Day 2 we explored part of the famous Golden Circle before heading to the South Coast. The Golden Circle is approximately 300 kilometres and includes several of Iceland's best known attractions - Þingvellir National Park, the Geysir Geothermal Area, Bruarfoss Waterfull and Gullfoss Waterfall.
Þingvellir National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site where tectonic plates have drifted apart and Iceland's historic parliament was founded. If you have time visitors can do many hikes, including a walk through the valley between the two plates. Those more adventurous may also like to try snorkelling or diving between the two tectonic plates, I couldn't fit it into this trip but would definitely consider it another time, preferably in summer.
The Öxarárfoss waterfall is in Þingvellir National Park and is easiest to access from Carpark 2 via a fairly short, easy walk.
One of my favourite stops was the Bruarfoss Waterfall. Easy to access by a fairly short walk from the carpark it is known for it's stunning turquoise water originating from the Langjokull Glacier.
Visiting the Gullfoss Waterfall is remarkable due to its size and scale. It's fairly easy to access from the high viewing points and those keen to explore further can walk down to the lower access points. The powerful water spray is featured in the photo and we were very fortunate to get some clear moments without rain.
Leaving the Golden Circle and heading for the South Coast to begin the drive around the Ring Road, our last stop for the day was the majestic Seljalandsfoss waterfall. This waterfall is approximately 60 metres high and the water comes from the Eyjafjallajökull glacier. There is also a walking trail that runs behind the waterfall. for those wanting to get closer when it's safe to do so.
South Coast
Day 3 rained all day, it was our worst weather day and we really didn't have the right clothes to be exploring in those conditions. We only stopped briefly to see the Skógafoss Waterfull before making our way to Vik to meet our guide for the Katla Ice Cave Jeep Tour. Had the weather been clear with good visibility I would have visited the Dyrhólaey Penninisula and Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach.
I was not looking forward to visting the glacier in the rain and was relieved that we could hire waterproof pants and jackets to make it more manageable. Thankfully whilst on the ice the rain was lighter for us, becoming worse during the afternoon and evening.
The Mýrdalsjökull glacier is covered in volcanic black ash and it was impressive to see. The cave itself was good but not as good as the images I'd seen and I believe this may be because the images I'd seen were taken when the cave was larger and longer, as part of it has since collapsed.
I also found out later that the South Coast is traditionally the wettest area in Iceland and a guide told us that Vik is known as the wettest place in Iceland with reports of rain around 330 days a year!
That afternoon and evening we lost internet access (so no Google Maps), the rain became torrential and we found ourselves driving in the dark on the small, winding rounds unsure when we'd reach the hotel. We eventually got there but it was a really harrowing part of the trip.
Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach
Day 4 delivered perfect weather and it couldn't have happened at a better time as I'd booked us on a morning tour of the glacier lagoon.
There a two different tour options and I recommend the zodiac. It was a bit more effort getting to the boat but it enables you to explore more of the lagoon and get closer to the glacier. We also got some beautiful close up views of what appeared to be very happy seals.
Across the road from the lagoon we visited Diamond Beach. The beach's formal name is actually Breidamerkursandur, but it has become known as Diamond Beach because of the sparkling appearance of ice on the black sand.
Hverir and Goðafoss
As we progressed further around the ring road on Day 5, travelling from the East to the North we stopped in to visit the Rjúkandi Waterfall and Hverir, also known as Námaskarð.
Hverir is an active geothermal area where you can watch the ground bubbling and the landscape is suddenly made up of amazing yellows, oranges and browns. However, there is also a very strong sulphur smell so I wasn't keen to stay too long.
Sadly it was late afternoon when I arrived at the famous Goðafoss waterfall, there was light rain and the light wasn't good. If you get the opportunity I'd recommend visiting early in the day as I expect with the sun lighting it up it would be spectacular.
There is a lot more that could be explored in this region and if you have the time I'd allow another couple of days. Some of the other sights I would love to have seen include Stuðlagil Canyon and the Dettifoss Waterfall, ideally from the East and West sides.
Whale Watching
I was very grateful for excellent weather again on Day 6 in the North, as I'd booked a morning whale watching tour with Iceland's oldest whale watching tour in Hauganes.
We had a beautiful morning out on the water. The sea was calm and we saw several humpback whales. The whales would rise to the surface for a few moments before gently diving again with a flick of their tails.
Later that day I had a wonderful visit to Forest Lagoon, another geothermal pool. Close to town but feeling remote it was another magical experience.
The following day, day 7, we drove from the North back down to the South West.
Snæfellsnes Penninsula
This famous area in the South West of Iceland is known as a mini-Iceland experience due to the diversity of its dramatic landscapes.
Day 8 started with a quick stop at the Gerðuberg Cliffs.
The highlight of the day was Kirkjufell Mountain, one of the most well-known and most photographed views in Iceland.
We stopped to see a couple of beaches including Skarðsvík Beach below and Ytri-tunga beach which is well known for seal watching.
The best view of a black sand beach was at Djúpalónssandur.
There were also excellent coastal views from the Lóndrangar View Point.
Northern Lights
I'd hoped for a chance to the see the Northern Lights but as the trip was getting closer to ending I thought we may have missed our opportunity. However, whilst staying at Hotel Hamar we were fortunate enough to see them both nights.
I could see the greens moving through the sky with my naked eye but the colours came up much better in the camera. However, without a tripod it was almost impossible to capture them well with my camera or smartphone, particularly given the cold temperatures.
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss
The drive from the South West back to the capital was the plan for Day 9. There were a lot of weather warnings in place so we waited until mid morning when it was a little clearer before heading out.
We detoured via Hraunfosser, which is a long series of mini-falls flowing through a lava field.
At the same site you can see also see Barnafoss which is a made up of rapids.
Arriving back in the capital we stopped in to visit the Perlan museum.
Geothermal Pools
On our last day before flying home I booked a final geothermal spa experience in Reykjavík at Sky Lagoon, which was the perfect way to celebrate the end of an amazing trip.
In total I tried 4 different thermal spa experiences and loved them all. Blue Lagoon being the first experience and arriving for sunrise was possibly the most special, however they were all beautiful experiences where I felt nutured and connected to nature.
Vok Baths in the North East felt like a more intimate, local experience. Forest Lagoon felt like the most natural of all the environments and Sky Lagoon possibly felt the most prestiguous, like being on top of the world for some moments of luxury.
I would happily visit any of the above again, and if visiting Iceland again I'd actively seek out more of these incredible geothermal spas to try.
Accommodation
All the accommodation worked well, with stays in Reykjavík at Hotel Reykjavík Grand which had a great onsite restaurant, and Hotel Eyja which is Green Globe certified and has a beautiful aesthetic but only serves breakfast followed by light snacks.
Many of the areas are very remote with limited accommodation choices, which led to me selecting a couple of very special, unique stays which included Umi Hotel, Hotel Hamar where we saw the Nothern Lights, and my favourite where I would have loved to spend more time was the Hótel Jökulsarlon - Glacier Lagoon Hotel.
For a budget friendly stay in Egilsstaðir the Berjaya Hérað Hotel worked well. In Akureryri, I recommend Hotel Akureyri for it's decor, location and breakfasts but make sure you check the room size carefully as the room I booked was lovely but far too small for two adults with a lot of luggage.
Overview
Exploring Iceland felt like a 'trip of a lifetime'. The scenery was spectacular and so dynamic that every day was full of surprises. It felt like living an episode of a premium travel show and I loved every moment.
For those that love nature I highly recommend Iceland. If I get to go again at any stage the other highlight I'd like to include would be visiting during puffin season.
